Sunrise Express

I took my first ride on Japan’s only regular sleeper limited express train, the Sunrise Seto/Izumo.

In the past, there were various overnight sleeper trains, but as the Shinkansen network expanded nationwide and highway buses became more convenient, only this Sunrise train remains. Departing from Tokyo Station, it heads to two destinations: Takamatsu and Izumo. At Okayama Station, the train is divided, with the front seven cars continuing to Takamatsu and the rear seven cars heading to Izumo. The train departs Tokyo Station from platform 9 at 9:50 PM every night and arrives in Izumo the following morning at 9:58 AM. Covering a distance of about 950 kilometers, it takes 12 hours to travel by train, which a plane could cover in just an hour and a half.

In addition to the fare and limited express surcharge, there is a sleeper fee, with several types of rooms available at different prices. Tickets go on sale one month in advance, but they are quite popular and can be difficult to obtain. This time, I was able to secure a B Single room for 7,700 yen.

The room was spacious enough and quite comfortable. It came with a quilt, pillow, and even pajamas. It’s important to remember to close the curtains, as your sleeping area can be visible to people on the platform when the train stops. While there are drink vending machines on board, there is no dining car, so it’s best to bring your breakfast.

The train leaves Tokyo Station, passing through the bustling city at night. Occasionally, it sways and you can hear the sound of the tracks. I fell asleep completely around midnight and woke up past 4 AM, just as I was passing through Kyoto Station. The train transitions from the Tokaido Main Line to the Sanyo Main Line. Around 6:30 AM, I arrived at Okayama Station, where the train is split. Many passengers gathered to watch and photograph this process. Afterwards, the train enters the Hakubi Line and then the San’in Main Line, where the scenery outside gradually changes to the typical Japanese countryside and mountain villages. The journey becomes a leisurely experience, enjoying views of mountains and old houses.

This trip was aimed at visiting the roots of Japanese mythology in Shimane Prefecture, observing the traditional tatara iron-making process, and seeing the Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine, a World Heritage site. I felt that taking the popular sleeper train, the Sunrise, and traveling at a relaxed pace was the perfect way to visit these destinations.